salt in the air

Beaches and water activities on Banderas Bay

Banderas Bay is one of the largest bays in North America, and it shows: a working malecón beach in town, water-taxi coves you can only reach by boat, and a snorkel-only marine park an hour offshore. Here is how we actually spend our days on the water.

In town: Los Muertos Beach

Los Muertos Beach is the classic — rent a palapa, order a michelada, and stay until the light goes gold. It is the easiest beach to reach on foot from Zona Romántica, with restaurants and bars lining the boardwalk behind it.

The best time to go is morning through early afternoon for calmer water and reliable sun. Afternoons can bring seasonal swells and afternoon breezes that stir up the sand. Sunset is magical but crowded; go for the atmosphere, not for swimming.

What to bring: reef-safe sunscreen (the bay has natural coral formations), a towel, cash for drinks and food (most beachfront palapas take payment after you sit), and water shoes if you prefer them. Bring a cover-up if you plan to walk the malecón. Parking on the street fills quickly by 11 a.m.; arrive early or use a paid lot nearby.

Getting there is simple if you're staying in Zona Romántica — a 10-to-20-minute walk depending on your location. From elsewhere in town, a taxi or ride-share costs a few dollars. Public parking is along the malecón and in small lots behind the beach.

By boat: Yelapa, Majahuitas, and beyond

Yelapa and Majahuitas are water-taxi coves south of town — no roads in, just boat launches from the Los Muertos pier and a short hike up to waterfalls once you land. Water taxis depart throughout the day and cost just a few dollars each way; trips take 20 to 30 minutes depending on the destination. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, snorkel gear if you have your own, and cash (some beach vendors don't take cards).

Yelapa is the busier of the two, with a small village, a waterfall you can hike to in about 15 minutes, and decent snorkeling nearby. Majahuitas is smaller and quieter, just a beach and palapa restaurants — pick Majahuitas if you want fewer crowds. Both fill up with day-trippers in high season (December through March), so arrive by water taxi early or go during shoulder months (April, September, October) for a more relaxed vibe.

The Marietas Islands are further out, a protected marine park best known for the "hidden beach" reachable only by swimming through a short sea cave. Book the permit tour early in high season — daily visitor numbers are capped. Tours typically last 4 to 5 hours and depart from the north malecón or via hotels. Bring seasickness medication if you're prone; it's an hour offshore and can be choppy on windy days.

Water conditions vary seasonally. December through April is dry season, with calmer mornings and occasional afternoon wind. May through November is green season, with warmer water and fewer tourists, but afternoon storms are possible. Marine life is most active and visible June through October, though the Marietas Islands stay productive year-round for snorkeling.

Planning your water day

Most beach days here split between water time and land time. Pack light, anchor yourself at one palapa, and let the day unfold. Water taxis are the main way to reach coves — they run on loose schedules, but boats go out whenever they're full, typically every 20 to 30 minutes. You can wait for the next boat or hike back up to the pier if the departure is too crowded.

Budget-wise: water taxis and palapa rentals are cheap; snorkeling tours and boat excursions cost more. Drink and food prices on the beach are modest to moderate depending on the spot. Bring pesos for small vendors and taxis; larger vendors and restaurants often take cards.

Safety is generally excellent in Banderas Bay. Beaches are calm, snorkeling is low-risk (stay in marked zones and with tour operators if it's your first time). The main advice is sun protection — sunburn happens fast, and reapply often if you're in and out of the water.

Good to know

Do I need to book the Marietas Islands tour in advance?

Yes, especially December through April. The hidden beach has a daily visitor cap enforced by the national park, and boat operators sell out. Book at least a few days ahead in high season.

How do I get to Yelapa and Majahuitas?

Water taxis depart from the Los Muertos pier in Puerto Vallarta town. No reservations needed; just show up, buy a ticket, and board when the boat fills (usually every 20 to 30 minutes). Trips take about 20 to 30 minutes depending on which cove you're headed to. Return boats run on the same frequency until late afternoon.

Is it safe to swim at Los Muertos Beach?

Yes, Los Muertos Beach is very safe and swimmable nearly year-round. The beach shelves gradually, so it's good for all swimming levels. Morning water is calmer and clearest; afternoons can have swells and choppier conditions depending on season and wind. Rip currents are uncommon, but if caught in one, swim parallel to shore. Lifeguards are not always present, so swim conservatively.

What should I pack for a day on the water?

Bring reef-safe sunscreen (at least SPF 30, and reapply often), a beach towel, water shoes or flip-flops, a cover-up, cash, and a reusable water bottle to stay hydrated. If you're heading to the Marietas Islands or snorkeling, bring or rent a snorkel mask and fins. For boat trips to Yelapa or beyond, consider taking a light rash guard or shirt to avoid sun exposure during travel. A dry bag keeps phones and valuables safe.